Before sunrise the charcoal in our clay jar is already glowing. Rested dough is pressed onto the jar wall and puffs up in moments, ready with hot tea under the pink awning on Sri Phanit Road.
We have sold clay-jar roti in Mae Sot for more than 40 years, from an Indian-style dough recipe handed down through the family.
Indian settlers who came over from Burma found that a big glazed water jar made a fine oven: light charcoal inside, press the dough onto the hot wall, and it bakes in under a minute with no oil at all.
Mornings here feel like a neighbourhood coffee club. Locals sit over tea at the pink checked tables, while visitors get up early to eat before the dough runs out.
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Big rounds of house-made dough baked on the jar wall until puffed and lightly charred, served one at a time while hot. Eat it plain, dunk it in tea or dip it in condensed milk.
Burmese soybean curry with chicken and curry powder, for tearing roti into. It is not made every day and sells out fast, so call ahead if you have your heart set on it.
Mae Sot sits in western Tak, a short drive from the Moei River and the Friendship Bridge to Myawaddy, with the golden Burmese-style chedi of Wat Chumphon Khiri in town. These are places around Mae Sot, not the shop.
เจดีย์วัดชุมพลคีรีแม่สอดThe chedi of Wat Chumphon Khiri, Mae Sotสะพานมิตรภาพไทย–เมียนมาข้ามแม่น้ำเมยThe Thai–Myanmar Friendship Bridge over the Moei Riverแม่น้ำเมยพรมแดนไทย–เมียนมาThe Moei River on the Thai–Myanmar borderซุ้มประตูด่านฝั่งไทยของสะพานมิตรภาพThe Thai-side gate of the Friendship Bridge
How is clay-jar roti different from ordinary roti? Ordinary roti is fried in oil; ours is baked on the inside wall of a charcoal-fired clay jar, so it uses no oil and comes out thicker and chewier, closer to naan, with crisp edges.
What should I eat it with? Try a bite plain, then dip it in condensed milk or milk tea; soft-boiled or fried eggs go well too, and bean curry if it is on that day.